NW Getaway: Visiting the San Juan Islands

When I tell people from Vancouver I love to visit the San Juan Islands, I usually hear two things: “I’ve heard it’s so beautiful there!” quickly followed by “Isn’t it really far away?” Yes, and a little but worth it, are my usual responses. Nestled up close to Canada, the San Juan Islands are not meant for a day trip from Southwest Washington, but they are without a doubt deserving of the trek.

The collection of islands is not only beautiful but has a small-town community feel that folds you in instantly. Some parts of the island have less than stellar cell service, so it is a welcome chance to unplug, slow down and be surrounded by local beauty. This year we made the trek with our kids and our two exchange students in tow, and their audible gasps were all the proof we needed that this place is special.

 If you love the outdoors, a slower pace and scenic views at every turn, book a ferry right now and thank me later.

Visiting the San Juan Islands – Getting There

The islands are only accessible by ferry that you will catch in Anacortes. Pro tip: If you’re planning to visit during high tourist seasons, you’re going to want to book the ferry in advance to be on the safe side. When you book your ferry trip, you’re paying for a roundtrip ticket and won’t have to pay again on the way back.

The drive to Anacortes is a little over four hours from Vancouver, so naturally, with kids, we decided to turn it into a mini road trip and make a few stops to curb the complaining. We opted to stop in Tacoma on the way there for lunch at Cook’s Tavern and a walk along the waterfront on Ruston Way. On the way back, we mixed it up and explored parks in Seattle and ate some amazing dumplings at Din Tai Fung.

The ferry itself is fun and really leans into the idea that it’s the journey not the destination. It will take you to either Lopez, Orcas or San Juan Island. I’ve yet to visit any of the islands besides San Juan, but they are on my list. Depending on the stops, the ferry usually takes around an hour and is a hit with kids and adults alike. We timed our ride just right and made it just in time for sunset, and you can’t beat views like that from the upper deck. I’ve also heard that ferries are sometimes delayed while the boats pause for pods of orcas. Fingers crossed!

Where to Stay – Visiting the San Juan Islands

If you like camping or glamping, San Juan Island has options. For camping and farm opportunities, you’ll want to go to Free Horse Farm, or for glamping style units, head to Sweet Earth Farm and hang with animals and pick some fresh produce. Driftwood Farm Cottage offers a waterfront vacation cottage on 25 acres and Juniper Lane Guest House can accommodate big groups with a hip vibe and a view of wildlife preserves.

If hotels are more your style, The Orca Inn is great on a budget and Friday Harbor Suites are lovely apartment style lodgings with swanky fireplaces.

I am of the age where one night sleeping on the ground is plenty, so I usually opt for a cabin. My most iconic trips have been staying at local farms with access to a kitchen, so I can head to the farmer’s market and cook with the local produce I’m surrounded by.

Enjoying the Outdoors – Visiting the San Juan Islands

All you have to do is close your eyes and point while you’re on the island, and you’re inevitably going to spot something beautiful. The choices are endless for beaches to choose from, coves to kayak in or spots to whale watch. (Although on the island, they often call it whale waiting.) You really can’t go wrong, but I’ll recommend a few of my favorites.

Orcas and humpbacks can be found around the islands April through October. You can head out on a whale watching boat and most companies will offer you a free or discounted ticket if you don’t see anything on your first trip.

If you don’t want to pay for a whale watching boat, head to Lime Kiln Point State Park for your best bet. I will admit that despite lots of determination, I have yet to see a whale, but on this last trip we did see lots of seals as a consolation. This is a beautiful spot with a short and easy trek down to the viewing point, and I recommend coming with a picnic lunch and binoculars, just in case.

While you’re here you can check out the lighthouse or head just slightly up the road to Dead Man’s Bay. This is a perfect spot for kayaking or exploring the tide pools. This ended up being my kids’ favorite spot, partly because of the sea cucumber they discovered, but also because it’s a driftwood fort building haven.

If you love combing beaches for shells and sea glass, the low tides at False Bay are a great way to spend an hour. I also had my first fox sighting here!

For a long sandy beach, Jackson Beach is not too far from Friday Harbor, where the ferry comes in and South Beach is the longest beach on the island  and it’s a prime wildlife viewing spot!

 If you’re in the mood for a hike with sweeping views, you won’t want to miss  Jakle’s Lagoon, just south of Fourth of July Beach. It’s got a forest loop that will take you to the top of Mount Finlayson and has idyllic views of Cattle Point Lighthouse and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. You can make this hike easier or harder depending on your preference, so it’s great for kids or a solo hike.

Another stunner of a spot for kayaking, and a personal favorite of mine is  San Juan County Park. Whatever else you do, carve out an evening to spend watching the sunset here.

For a quick walk and a chance to let kids go nuts on the playground, check out  John O. Linde Park – a spot we hit up almost every afternoon last time we visited.

For my history lovers (and non-history lovers too) do yourself a favor and spend an hour at  English Camp. San Juan Island is the site of a war that nearly started over a pig and ended with the British and Americans jointly occupying the island for a time. The English set up camp and made it quite the idyllic spot, and to this day it’s full of gardens, stately trees and a perfect area for a hike or an appreciation of the charm and views. You can also head to the American camp, but I think the English have us beat on this one.

I was skeptical when locals recommended a short hike to Afterglow Vista, or John S. McMillin Mausoleum, but it’s incredibly cool. You’ll pass by a few graves on the wooded trek to the monument of a wealthy family full of masonic symbolism. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience and I hear it’s especially fun on Halloween.

Arts, Culture and Shopping – Visiting the San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor is an adorable downtown area to check out boutique shops and local fares. If you’re a lover of books, they have not one but two bookstores to peruse: Griffin Bay Bookstore and Serendipity Used Books.  I’m also a big fan of Island Thyme, a shop that uses local ingredients from the island for skin care and soaps, and my kids turned out to be big lovers of the shop, Toy Box. Surprise, surprise!

For an interesting spot that’s fun to visit on a rainy day or for anyone who wants to learn a little more about the gentle creatures of the sea, swing by the Whale Museum. And if you’re in the neighborhood of the Mausoleum, there’s a quirky sculpture garden to walk through and explore.

Eating & Drinking – Visiting the San Juan Islands

So much of the island is pristine farmland, so there’s no shortage of farm to table meals. And, not surprisingly, this is also a place known for its seafood. In the fall, the island offers plenty of farm and winery tours to sample all the local flavors. If you love to cook, head to the San Juan Island Farmer’s Market on Saturdays or to local farms to gather fresh ingredients. This is my favorite way to eat while I’m visiting!

If you’re out and about, grab a coffee at Salty Fox Coffee Shop or San Juan Island Roasters and pick up some sweet treats or freshly made pizzas at Bakery San Juan. So, so good. For some family friendly fare, don’t miss the San Juan Island Brewing Company or the Cannery House for superb clam chowder.

If you’re feeling a little fancy, spend an evening at Duck Soup for terrific seafood and Northwest cuisine in a rustic cabin overlooking the pond. Locals recommended this place with gusto but said I might want to save it for an adult only trip. And if you really want to treat yourself, please make time for San Juan Vineyard to indulge in the beverages and soak in the atmosphere.

Just Do It – Visiting the San Juan Islands

The San Juan Islands are a special place. Coming here is like letting out a big exhale you didn’t know you’d been holding. Even when traveling with kids, which isn’t always the most relaxing experience, there are so many opportunities to connect with nature and embrace exploration. We loved seeing foxes, seals and eagles while combing different beaches and chatting with lovely people. I never felt like a tourist here. My kids are enthralled every time we come, which cannot be said for every family trip we take.

We will keep coming back here because we really aren’t that far from this extraordinary gem. I want to come back for the foliage in the fall and mark my words, one of these times I will see a whale.   

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